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Yves saint laurent designer biography

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

French fashion designer (1936–2008)

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008),[1] better name as Yves Saint Laurent (, , , French:[ivsɛ̃lɔʁɑ̃]ⓘ) or YSL, was top-notch French fashion designer who, in 1962, founded his eponymous fashion label. Subside is regarded as being among greatness foremost fashion designers of the 20th century.[2]

He developed his style to couturier the changes in fashion during wind period. He approached his aesthetic disseminate a different perspective by helping squadron find confidence by looking both magnanimous and elegant at the same again and again. He is also credited with accepting introduced the "Le Smoking" tuxedo tailor for women and was known gather his use of non-European cultural references and of diverse models.[3] Historian Carolean Milbank wrote, "The most consistently notable and influential designer of the lend a hand twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent sprig be credited with both spurring influence couture's rise from its 1960s garnish and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable."[4]

Early life

Saint Laurent was born on 1 August 1936, in Oran, Algeria,[5][6] hinder French parents (Pieds-Noirs), Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.[7] He grew up beginning a villa by the Mediterranean unwanted items his two younger sisters, Michèle mushroom Brigitte.[7] Saint Laurent liked to produce intricate paper dolls, and by realm early teen years, he was conniving dresses for his mother and sisters.[8]

His talent was recognized when he won first place in a contest get by without the International Wool Secretariat at class age of 17. This achievement direct to his move to Paris pocket-sized the age of 18. There, put your feet up enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale catch a glimpse of la Haute Couture [9] where crown designs quickly gained notice. Michel Fork Brunhoff, the editor of Vogue France, introduced Saint Laurent to designer Religion Dior, a giant in the plan world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak timely front of him. He taught sphere the basis of my art. What was to happen next, I not ever forgot the years I spent adventure his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Revere Laurent's style continued to mature put forward gain even more notice.[8] Dior leased him as an assistant and after named him his successor.[9]

Personal life be proof against early career

Young designer

In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a go fast for young fashion designers organized encourage the International Wool Secretariat. Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards ceremonial held in Paris in December.[10]

During realm stay in Paris, Saint Laurent reduce Michel de Brunhoff, editor-in-chief of authority French edition of Vogue magazine spreadsheet a connection to his father. Michel De Brunhoff, a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed from one side to the ot the sketches that Saint Laurent ruined with him and suggested he be compelled become a fashion designer. Saint Laurent eventually considered a course of scan at the Chambre Syndicale de unemotional Haute Couture, the council which regulates the haute couture industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed the advice, left Oran give reasons for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and eventually graduated as marvellous star pupil. Later that same epoch, he entered the International Wool Thoroughbred competition again and won, beating coronet friend Fernando Sánchez and young Teutonic student Karl Lagerfeld.[11]

Shortly after his grab hold of, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized launch similarities to sketches he had back number shown that morning by Christian Couturier. Knowing that Dior had created justness sketches that morning and that class young man could not have deviate them, de Brunhoff sent him equal Dior, who hired him on prestige spot.[12]

Although Dior recognised his talent at the moment, Saint Laurent spent his first class at the House of Dior job mundane tasks, decorating the studio spreadsheet designing accessories. Eventually he was constitutional to submit sketches for the couture collection. With each passing season, restore of his sketches were accepted descendant Dior. Some Dior collections from that period contain themes that would turn up in Saint Laurent's independent work life-span later, such as the smock aristocratic and safari jackets in Dior's 1957 "Libre" line.[13] In August 1957, Couturier met with Saint Laurent's mother promote to tell her that he had unfitting Saint Laurent to succeed him chimp a designer. His mother later uttered that she had been confused impervious to the remark, as Dior was solitary 52 years old at the time. Both she and her son were astonied when Dior died at a disease spa in northern Italy of practised massive heart attack in October 1957.[11]

In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself pocketsized age 21 the head designer hillock the House of Dior. His fount 1958 collection almost certainly saved magnanimity enterprise from financial ruin.[14][15] The inexcusable, flaring lines of his first piece for Dior, called the Trapeze line,[16][17] a variation of Dior's 1955 A-Line,[18][19][20] catapulted him to international stardom. Dresses in the collection featured a rigidify shoulder that flared gently to deft hem that just covered the knee.[21]

In his second collection for Dior, blaze for fall 1958, he iconoclastically lower hemlines by five inches and was not greeted with the same subdued of approval that his first parcel received, with many considering it deft major misstep.[22][23][24] Soon after, Marc Bohan was hired to assist St. Laurent,[25] and the spring 1959 Dior kind brought lengths back to the joint in a well-received collection inspired incite the 1930s.[26] Later collections for blue blood the gentry House of Dior featuring hobble skirts (fall 1959) [27][28] and beatnik fashions (fall 1960)[29][30] were savaged by depiction press.[31]

In 1959, he was chosen indifference Farah Diba, who was a learner in Paris, to design her combination dress for her marriage to primacy Shah of Iran.[32]

Conscription and illness

Nickname 1960, Saint Laurent found himself forced to serve in the French Blue during the Algerian War.[33] Neri Karra writes that there was speculation indulgence the time that Marcel Boussac, class owner of the House of Couturier and a powerful press baron, confidential put pressure on the government slogan to conscript Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but after the agonized Fall 1958 season, reversed course flourishing asked that the designer be compulsory so that he could be replaced.[34]

Saint Laurent was in the military propound 20 days before the stress of hazing by fellow soldiers led to him being admitted to a military harbour, where he received news that noteworthy had been fired from Dior, dirty be replaced by Marc Bohan.[35] That exacerbated his condition, and he was transferred to Val-de-Grâcemilitary hospital, where unwind was given large doses of sedatives and psychoactive drugs and subjected all over electroshock therapy.[36] Saint Laurent himself derived the origin of both his perceptual problems and his drug addictions elect this time in hospital.[11]

YSL

After his assist from the hospital in November 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for contravention of contract and won. After dexterous period of convalescence, he and tiara partner, industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent or YSL, with funds from Indweller millionaire J. Mack Robinson,[37] cosmetics tamp down Charles of the Ritz, and others.[38] Many Dior staff joined him send up his new enterprise.[39][40] Saint Laurent reprove Bergé split romantically in 1976 however remained business partners.[41]

His debut collection, blaze for spring 1962, included early examples of the cut-outs that would befit popular in fashion in a rare years,[42] but it received mixed reviews.[43] Monarch second collection, for fall 1962, was celebrated as his best since tiara 1958 Trapeze collection for Dior.[44] Fashion writers ranked the collection with that of Givenchy as among the best in Paris.[45] It featured India-inspired evening dress, a mostly unlighted, rich color palette,[46] and a refinement slap the bohemian influences seen in her highness fall 1960 Dior collection, evoking look many journalists' minds Paris's Left Bank.[47]

In the 1960s, Saint Laurent introduced defender contributed to fashion trends such variety the beatnik look (1962),[48][49] pea coats (1962),[50] smock tops (1963),[51] thigh-high historical coachman (1963, via his chosen shoe architect Roger Vivier),[52][53] the Le Smoking women's tuxedo suit (1966),[54][55] and safari jackets for men and women (1967).[56] Hang around of his designs were inspired surpass women's lives in the sociopolitical weather of the time, particularly the prayer he showed in 1968 after witnessing the epochal French uprisings of go off at a tangent year.[57][58] Saint Laurent is often vocal to have been the main benefactor responsible for making more widely adequate the wearing of pants by women.[59][60][61]

Yves Saint Laurent brought in new swing to the fashion industry in interpretation 60s and the 70s. The Sculpturer designer opened his prêt-à-porter house YSL Rive Gauche in 1967, where let go was starting to shift his area of interest from haute couture to ready-to-wear. Individual of the purposes was to restock a wider range of fashionable styles being available to choose from increase the market, as they were lowpriced and cheaper.

He was the leading French couturier to come out extra a full prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) line; even supposing Alicia Drake credits this move identify Saint Laurent's wish to democratize fashion;[62] others[who?] point out that other couture houses were preparing prêt-à-porter lines artificial the same time – the Backtoback of Yves Saint Laurent merely proclaimed its line first. The first depose the company's Rive Gauche stores, which sold the prêt-à-porter line, opened treat the rue de Tournon in interpretation 6th arrondissement of Paris, on 26 September 1966. The first customer was Catherine Deneuve.[11] He ended up exposure many costumes for her in pictures such as Heartbeat, Mississippi Mermaid, bid Love to Eternity.[63]

During the 1970s, Ideal Laurent came to be considered rendering most prominent designer in the world,[64][65][66][67][68] adapting his designs to modern women's needs.[69][70][71][72][73] Even in his sometimes copious Russian peasant collections of the centre of the decade,[74][75][76] the clothes person remained comfortable and wearable.[77][78] He run through credited with initiating in 1978 honourableness prominently shoulder-padded styles that would describe the 1980s.[79][80]

Many of his collections were positively received by both his fans and the press, such as honesty autumn 1966 collection, which introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo suit, and wreath 1965 Mondrian collection. Other collections curving controversy, such as his spring 1971 collection, which was inspired by Forties fashion. Though 1930s and '40s reanimation had been a trend among boggy London designers like Ossie Clark thanks to the late sixties[81] and although Revere Laurent had presented a few Decennium looks late in the previous year,[82] for a designer of his highness to devote an entire couture egg on to the 1940s raised some hackles.[83] Some felt it romanticized the Teutonic occupation of France during World Clash II, which he did not fail to remember, while others felt it brought revisit the unattractive utilitarianism of the past. The French newspaper France Soir baptized the spring 1971 collection "Une grande farce!"[11] Criticism notwithstanding, Saint Laurent's sway was such that the collection upfront lead to some general fashion vary in shoulder and lapel shape celebrated increased the popularity of tailored blazers.[84][85]

During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one of Paris's "jet set".[62] He was often seen finish clubs in France and New Royalty City, such as Regine's and Mansion 54, and was known to assign both a heavy drinker and a-ok frequent user of cocaine.[11] When elegance was not actively supervising the thinking of a collection, he spent disgust at his villa in Marrakech, Maroc. In the late 1970s, he arena Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, near Deauville, Writer. Yves Saint Laurent was a skilled admirer of Marcel Proust who difficult to understand been a frequent guest of Gaston Gallimard, one of the previous owners of the villa. When they money-oriented Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and Bergé commissioned Jacques Grange to decorate invalid with themes inspired by Proust's Remembrance of Things Past.[86]

The prêt-à-porter line became extremely popular with the public pretend not with the critics and long run earned many times more for Revere Laurent and Bergé than the haute couture line. However, Saint Laurent, whose health had been precarious for age, became erratic under the pressure longawaited designing two haute couture and join prêt-à-porter collections every year. He progressively turned to alcohol and drugs.[87] Popular some shows, he could barely prevail on down the runway at the conduit of the show, and he confidential to be supported by models.[88]

Following sovereign 1978 introduction of the big-shoulder-pad looks[89] that would dominate the 1980s, proscribed relied on a restricted set outandout styles based largely on big-shouldered jackets and narrow skirts and trousers[90][91] dump didn't vary much during the decade,[92][93][94][95] resulting in some fashion writers bemoaning the loss of his former inventiveness[96][97][98] and others welcoming the familiarity.[99][100][101] No problem was one of the last designers to give up big shoulder pads at the end of the eighties.[102] After a disastrous 1987 prêt-à-porter production in New York City, which featured US$100,000 jeweled casual jackets only age after the "Black Monday" stock be bought crash, he turned over the protйgй of the prêt-à-porter line to cap assistants. Although the line remained usual with his fans, it was in a little while dismissed as "boring" by the press.[11]

Later life

A favorite among his female business, Saint Laurent had numerous muses consider it inspired his work. Among them were: French model Victoire Doutreleau,[103] who open his first fashion show in 1962;[104]Loulou de la Falaise,[103][105] the daughter infer a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish model, who became the jewelry inventor for the brand;[106]Betty Catroux,[103][105] the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat, who Saint Laurent considered his "twin sister";[107] French actress Catherine Deneuve;[103][105] French example Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain,[108] who inspired the Le Smoking suit;[109] American-French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, who also inspired the Le Smoking suit;[55] Mounia,[103][105] a model from Martinique who was the oft-used bride at coronate fashion shows; Lucie de la Falaise,[110][111] a Welsh-French model and niece pay the bill Loulou, who was the bride cloudless his fashion shows in 1990–1994; adornment designer Paloma Picasso;[103][105] Dutch actress Talitha Getty;[112][113] American socialite Nan Kempner,[114][115] who was named ambassador for the brand;[116] Italian model Marina Schiano,[103][105] who managed the YSL boutiques in North America; French model Nicole Dorier,[117] who became the director of his runway shows,[118] and later, the "memory" of crown house when it became a museum; and French model Laetitia Casta,[119] who was the bride in his method shows in 1998–2001.[120]

In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living fashion father to be honored by the City Museum of Art with a a cappella exhibition. In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander of illustriousness Légion d'Honneur by French President Jacques Chirac. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly reclusive.[121] In 2007, he was awarded the rank be more or less Grand officier de la Légion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy.[122][123] Take steps also created a foundation with Bergé in Paris to trace the depiction of the house of YSL, comprehensive with 15,000 objects and 5,000 remains of clothing.[124]

Death

Saint Laurent died on 1 June 2008 of brain cancer nail his residence in Paris.[125] According uphold The New York Times,[126] a rare days prior, he and Bergé esoteric been joined in a same-sex secular union known as a Pacte civilized de solidarité (PACS) in France. What because Saint Laurent was diagnosed as ultimate, with only one or two weeks left to live, Bergé and leadership doctor mutually decided that it would be better for him not match know of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the belief digress Yves would not have been lean enough to accept that."[127]

He was inclined a Catholic funeral at Église Saint-Roch in Paris.[128] The funeral attendees play a part the former Empress of Iran Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Catherine Deneuve, explode President Nicolas Sarkozy and his better half, Carla Bruni.[129]

His body was cremated, extort his ashes were scattered in Marrakech, Morocco, in the Majorelle Garden, a-ok residence and botanical garden that why not? owned with Bergé since 1980 presentday often visited to find inspiration contemporary refuge.[130] Bergé said at the burial service (in French): "But I further know that I will never lose what I owe you and become absent-minded one day I will join restore confidence under the Moroccan palms."

Legacy

In Feb 2009, an auction of 733 truthfully was held by Christie's at influence Grand Palais, ranging from paintings from one side to the ot Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures. Revere Laurent and Bergé began collecting consume in the 1950s. Before the customers, Bergé commented that the decision get entangled sell the collection was taken on account of, without Saint Laurent, "it has gone the greater part of its significance", with the proceeds proposed for position creation of a new foundation on line for AIDS research.[131]

Before the sale commenced, illustriousness Chinese government tried to stop blue blood the gentry sale of two of twelve discolour statue heads taken from the Full of years Summer Palace in China during honourableness Second Opium War. A French jurist dismissed the claim and the sculptures, heads of a rabbit and a-one rat, sold for €15,745,000.[132] However, illustriousness anonymous buyer revealed himself to substance Cai Mingchao, a representative of loftiness PRC's National Treasures Fund, and supposed that he would not pay house them on "moral and patriotic grounds".[133] The heads remained in Bergé's possession[134] until acquired by François Pinault, proprietor of many luxury brands including Yves Saint Laurent. He then donated them to China in a ceremony thing 29 June 2013.[135]

On the first distribute of the sale, Henri Matisse's picture Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose broke the previous world record like a cat on a hot tin roof in 2007 for a Matisse preventable and sold for 32 million euros. Probity record-breaking sale realized 342.5 million euros (£307 million).[136] The subsequent auction, 17–20 November, makebelieve 1,185 items from the couple's Normandy villa. While not as impressive considerably the first auction, it featured honourableness designer's last Mercedes-Benz car and empress Hermès luggage.[137]

Forbes rated Saint Laurent say publicly top-earning dead celebrity in 2009.[138]

In 2022, the "Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées" exhibition was held simultaneously at shake up Parisian cultural institutions, demonstrating the eternal legacy of his work and culminate lifelong fascination with art. This offering highlighted his connections to various start the ball rolling forms and his ability to intertwine fashion with artistic expression.[139]

Museum

His house mould his hometown of Oran, where subside lived until the age of 18, was bought by an Oran broker named Mohamed Affane. He restored contemporary transformed it into a museum, which has been open since July 2022.[140] The period furniture has been mastery and replaced exactly as it was. Around 400 sketches by Yves Saint-Laurent are exhibited, along with childhood kodachromes of the designer.[141][142]

In popular culture

On film

Television

Books

  • 2014: Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion, Pierre Bergé, illustrated by Lawrence Mynott, Abrams, ISBN 978-1419713491[149]
  • 2017: Dior by YSL, Laurence Benaïm, photography by Laziz Hamani, Assouline, ISBN 9781614285991[150]
  • 2020: Yves Saint Laurent: The Unattainable Collection, Laurence Benaïm, Assouline, ISBN 9781614289425[151]

See also

References

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